Day 4
An early morning start leaving an hour and a half to get to Calon Segur in St Estephe. Overnight rain still hadn’t cleared as we headed through Margaux, St Julien and Pauillac for a tasting with Calon’s, Sophie Marc. The Chateau Capbern, which is between Phelan Segur and Calon Segur, was performing well above its status. Whilst Calon Segur, although good, lacked a little power and complexity of the great 2016.
Next was Montrose, where all three wines showed really well; Ch. Tronqouy-Lalande, La Dame de Montrose and Ch. Montrose. The sun shone through the clouds when we left Montrose, just like their Grand Vin. We popped in next door to Cos d’Estournel; Cos was well received by the team, however, Montrose has pole position for St Estephe 2018 vintage.
(image Montrose barrels)
We then crossed over to Pauillac to compare the Rothschild collection wines of both Lafite and Mouton Rothschild. The line-up at Lafite is the best I can remember, Duhart-Milton and Lafite were both outstanding, whilst Carruades had much more complexity than we expected. Lafite is now a contender for the yellow jersey...
Mouton has less power and opulence than Lafite, however, it’s not to be underestimated, it exudes class and sophistication. Given time in the bottle, this might win the top spot. Clerc Milon definitely shouldn’t be ignored and allocations are hard to come by due it’s Far East popularity. It’s up there with some of the best I have tasted.
Next stop was Grand Puy Lacoste, a firm favourite amongst our customers. We had a double treat as we were looked after by both Emeline and her father François-Xavier. Just two wines on show with Haut Batailley changing ownership. Lacoste-Borie, their second wine, must be a contender for Star Value buy from Pauillac. No worries with Grand Puy Lacoste, another great vintage.
We then headed to Pontet-Canet, where the Grand Vin was very polished and showing some serious impressive quality, yet with a yield of only 12 hectolitres per hectare, I have a feeling the price may be close to the current prices for 2009/2010. Alfred Tesseron very generously gave us lunch with his legendary cheeseboard…. After a quick café gourmand and before our appointment at Leoville Las Cases, we had time to fit in both UGC Pauillac and St Estephe tastings. Stars of the show were without doubt Batailley, Phelan Segur and Lynch Bages. We didn’t taste the two Pichon’s as we had appointments there later in the day and we were short on time. We also tasted Potensac along with Clos de Marquis at Leoville Las Cases. I always struggle with Delon wines out of the barrel, so I will reserve our final judgement for now.
A short drive through the hamlet of Langoa to Bruno Borie’s impressive Ducru-Beaucaillou to taste his three wines. Lalande-Borie is a contender for Star Value Buy for St Julien, which is situated on the top plateau next to Lagrange. Impressive fruit and reminded me of their great 2010. Ducru, made from vines around the Chateau, is a real body-builder of a wine this year.
Next, we were across the road for the UGC St Julien tasting at Branaire-Ducru. Our stars were Talbot, Leoville Barton, Gruaud Larose and Leoville Poyferre. The quality across the board was exceptional.
We then headed back for our last two tastings at Pichon Lalande and Pichon Baron. Lalande is a contender for my top 10 wines of the vintage, while Reserve is worth a mention as it’s a truly wonderful second wine. Pichon Baron was more masculine and opulent in style, it is well-knitted together and will be up there as one of the best Pichon Baron’s in recent years. A wonderful way to end Day 4.
Margaux awaits tomorrow...
If you are interested in En Primeur but haven't yet taken the plunge, read our introduction to buying En Primeur wine. If you would also like to receive emails on En Primeur, please email wine@bcfw.co.uk to be added to our distribution list.
