Referred to as la perle d’Aquitaine (the pearl of Aquitaine), Bordeaux is the sixth biggest city in France and situated in the southwest of the country. Straddled to the left bank of the River Garonne around 60km inland from the Atlantic Ocean, Bordeaux’s history has, of course, been dominated by the wine industry and is quite rightly known as the centre of the Fine Wine world. Over many years of travelling to both the city and region for En Primeur (tasting the previous years’ vintage direct from the barrel), the Bon Coeur Wine Buying team have built up a little black book of the hottest addresses and need-to-know establishments to get under the skin of this hidden gem city so that when you visit, you can feel like a real Bordelais. Allez hop, c’est parti!
No trip to Bordeaux would be complete without visiting some of the world-famous Châteaux and vineyards… and believe us there are plenty to choose from! The best way to explore is by car (designated driver required) heading north on the D210 into the Médoc until you reach your favourite appellation: Margaux, St. Julien, Pauillac, or St. Estèphe… it’s a wine lovers paradise and you’ll be certainly spoilt for choice. Alternatively, cross the imposing Pont d’Aquitaine and make haste eastwards towards St. Émilion on the E70, taking in all the charm of the cobbled streets and beautiful views of this unique world heritage site.
Nowadays many Châteaux are open to the public for tours and tastings, and there are even some who have restaurants on site (or nearby), such as Châteaux Lynch-Bages with Café Lavinal (Passage du Desquet, 33250 Pauillac), La Dominique with La Terrasse Rouge (1 La Dominique, 33330 Saint-Émilion), or Guiraud with La Chapelle (1 Château Guiraud, 33210 Sauternes), which are all well worth discovering and elevate your visit to the next level.
Nevertheless, for those who don’t want to rent a car, or simply want to stay closer to the town centre, Château Les Carmes Haut Brion (20 Rue des Carmes, 33000 Pessac-Léognan) is one of Bordeaux’s rising stars and with an impressive new winery to boot that can be reached by TBM tram Line B – direction Pessac Centre. Otherwise, why not revel in the wonderful world of wine at La Cité du Vin (34 Quai de Bacalan, 33300). Whether a novice or connoisseur, the fully immersive, interactive, and sensory exhibition is the ideal activity for wine lovers of all levels… and even better, it concludes with a glass of wine at their rooftop bar with the finest panoramic views of the city!
One of the best ways to discover a city is on foot, and Bordeaux is perfectly sized for a casual stroll of discovery. We suggest starting in the Capucins neighbourhood at La Grosse Cloche working your way towards La Porte Cailhau, where en route you must visit Fromagerie Deruelle (66 Rue du Pas-Saint-Georges, 33000). In our humble opinion, it’s quite possibly one of the best cheese shops in France and boasts a superb selection from across the country, as well as certain specialities imported from abroad. However, our tried and tested favourites include Gruyère, Comté, Mimolette and the star of the show Brillat-Savarin à la truffe… you’ll certainly thank us for this recommendation!
Working your way through the rabbit warren of streets you will end up at Rue Sainte-Catherine and then Place de la Comédie, where the latter is surrounded by the grand theatre, national opera house, as well as many high-end boutiques. One of our favourite stores to while away the hours in is L’Intendant Grands Vins de Bordeaux (2 Allées de Tourny, 33000), a multi-story wine Mecca with a spiral staircase that carries you up to vinous golden gates! Bottles of Bordeaux with impeccable pedigree and provenance can be sourced for all palates, preference, and price tags… we’ve enjoyed some stellar purchases over the years such as Châteaux d’Issan 1982, de Fargues 1996, and Rauzan-Ségla 2002, to name but a few. There’s seriously something for everyone, so why not grab a bottle (or two) and pair it with some of your purchases from Fromagerie Deruelle… a guaranteed match made in heaven!
Onwards to Place des Quinconces, which lays claim as the largest square in Europe at 12-hectares and the ever-impressive Monument aux Girdondins, followed by some down time in the Jardin Publique, a lush haven in the suburbs. Finally, wander down towards the Chartrons district, known for its old wine cellars and antique and bric-a-brac shops, where you can end your whistle stop tour with an early evening aperitif at Wine Moment (86 Quai des Chartrons, 33000) whilst enjoying the view across the River Garonne.
For something off-piste yet extremely fun, we’d highly recommend going to a L’Union Bordeaux Bègles rugby match at Stade Chaban Delmas (5 Place Johnston, 33000). Known by their nickname, Les Bordeaux et Blancs, in reference to their vinous-inspired shirts they have become one of the most exciting teams in the TOP14 league in recent years with a squad full of Grand Cru quality players. It will therefore come as no surprise that most home games sell out … so, book in advance and don’t miss the opportunity to be part of the 28,000-strong crowd with one of the best atmospheres in France. You won’t regret it… UBB, allez, allez, allez!
However, if you feel the need to escape the hustle and bustle of the city life, there’s no better place to go than Cap Ferret. The Bordelais flock here in their droves for the summer; yet it’s also a brilliant destination of choice for a day trip to enjoy sun, sea, and seafood! You can travel by car, however, there’s only one road in (and out) as it’s a peninsula, which can make it rather busy during peak summer season. So, we recommend taking a train direct from Gare Saint-Jean in Bordeaux to Arcachon, followed by a quick journey across the bay on one of the shuttle boats from the jetty on Arcachon seafront. Once you’ve arrived on terra firma again, take a stroll around the independent shops and make your way south to Chai Bertrand (48 Quartier des Pêcheurs, 33790) for the freshest oysters straight from the bay overlooking the famous dune du Pilat… with a refreshing glass of Bordeaux Blanc in hand, it takes some beating! For something a little more special, a reservation at Le Bouchon du Ferret (2 Rue des Palmiers, 33790) is a must. Indulge in array of delicacies from more local oysters and prawns, however, if on the specials then don’t hesitate in opting for the sole meunière or turbot… just don’t miss the last boat or fall asleep on the return train!
Back in Bordeaux one of our favourite restaurants is L’Entrecôte (Cour du 30 Juillet, 33000). Situated slap bang in the centre and distinguished by its black and yellow façade and constant long line of hungry diners (sadly no reservations here), it’s a gastronomic institution, and a rite of passage whilst in the city. The signature set menu of walnut salad, followed by thinly sliced rib eye smothered in their famous garlic butter sauce and a portion of crispy fries, hasn’t changed since 1959, and is a testament of both time, and tradition. It’s the ultimate steak-frites.
Nevertheless, if you’re like Jamie and Andrew with their ethos of “bigger is better in Bordeaux”, then a visit to Gueuleton (5 Place du Palais, 33000), is certainly worth the detour. Gueuleton started life as a magazine for les bons vivants (lovers of the finer things in life with a penchant for food and wine) and has now expanded into several restaurants throughout France, each concentrating on the unique regional cuisine in which they reside. Although they offer cult classics such as Pâté en Croûte, Foie Gras, Poulet Rôtie and much more… for us it’s all about the Côte de Boeuf! The choice is literally yours: Charolais, Limousin, Abeerdeen Angus, and Galician ex-dairy as well as other breeds are served by the kilo. Complete the banquet with an array of sensational sides like Aligot or Potato Dauphinoise, creamed Spinach, roasted Bone Marrow, as well as Béarnaise sauce… and wash it down with a superb bottle of Claret from an extensive, and well-priced list. The relaxed, rustic décor combined with great food and wine strikes the right balance. Ask for Simon or Brice, who will look after you with the very best Bordelais hospitality!
If fine dining is more your style, there’s no end of options from Sylvie Caze’s Le Chapon Fin (5 Rue Montesquieu, 33000), to the Michelin stars of Gordon Ramsay’s Le Pressoir d’Argent (5 Cour de l'Intendance, 33000), and Philippe Etchebest’s Le Quatrième Mur (2 National Theatre Place de la Comédie, 33000). However, our special suggestion is Ressources (126 Rue Fondaudège, 33000) by Tanguy Laviale, which won him a Michelin star after being open for just months. There is the option for a 3,4, or 5 menu and one of the best cellars in Bordeaux to choose from with the assistance of Sommelier, Maxime Courvoisier. Reservation most definitely required. Bon appétit!
Last, but by no means least, when you’re in Bordeaux you will of course just want to enjoy a great glass or bottle of wine. After all, you are in the de facto wine capital of the world! Our first port of call is always Aux Quatre Coins du Vin (8 rue de la Devise, 33000) as they offer over 40 wines by the glass using their Enomatic machines… simply top up a card, choose your wine, and go! For the real wine enthusiast, then L’Univerre (40 Rue Lecocq, 33000) is the place for you with an extensive 1,300 references from Bordeaux, Burgundy, and beyond on their wine list… just make sure you leave enough time to peruse the list. If in doubt, fortunately it doubles as a restaurant, so perhaps book in for lunch or dinner. Santé!
Now there’s nothing left to do other than book your flights and accomodation. Bon voyage!
If you’d like any more information on the Bordeaux wine region or would like some wine recommendations, please give me a call in the office on 01325 776446 or email me, andrew@bcfw.co.uk and I’d be happy to help.
