Since back in November 2018 when we tasted the 2017 there has been much talk of 2018 being exceptional for the reds. So, it was with great anticipation we arranged a full schedule of meetings and set off to taste the Burgundy 2018 vintage – with the team all coming from different parts of Europe we decided to meet in Paris and drive down to Burgundy. It was an intensive week; with too many highlights to mention, however, the reds did not disappoint. Jean-Jacques Girard deserves a special mention, when he says “It’s the best vintage for reds in my lifetime” I would have to agree and tip my cap to his 70+ years. For a few winemakers I had to hide my enthusiasm for their wines (didn’t want to put the price up!!!).
Tasting in the cellar is a real privilege; it’s a moment in time where all the hard work in the vineyard, cellar and discussions over a pastis all come together to be judged. It always surprises me how in each vintage we can find many nuances, however like ying and yang – it’s always a balance. When tasting En Primeur we are looking for true expression; that of terroir, balance, structure, purity and harmony - it’s like catching a perfect wave. Having tasted En Primeur for over 20 years and worked with many of the winemakers for many of these years I have such respect for their craft. With changes in climate, challenges of mother-nature, they are always having to adapt. Some Domaines are now embracing the new generation who have been patiently waiting in the wings, serving time in the cellar and in the fields. I do hope you enjoy this review, do read the producer notes, full of the key facts of their holdings and winemaker’s comments on the vintage. Do read our producer notes, which highlight some of their news on the last year, as well as new techniques embraced in the field and cellar. I do hope you enjoy.
The Vintage and Growing Conditions
The first three months of 2018 were incredibly wet, in fact the wettest on record for many with almost 20 inches of rain falling; a potential catastrophe… sodden ground, damp, moist conditions are often ideal for the spread of disease. A grateful gift was received from mother-nature, as disease didn’t materialise and the vignerons breathed a sigh of relief.
Bud break when the vines are at their most vulnerable was frost free, followed by a good, even flowering in May, combined with stable temperatures brought a good start to the vintage. July and August were hot and dry. At this stage an unusually high-water table from the previous rains in the first quarter resulted in very little hydro-stress. Although temperatures were high there was no extreme temperature spikes (these can often send the vines into forced shut down). Overall the conditions had balanced themselves out and have resulted in the wine offering plenty of freshness.
Harvest time in most cases was early, however, picking dates ranged from the 25th August until the 20th September depending on the vineyard management, house style of the Domaine and winemaker preferences.
The Reds - our vintage score 9-9.5 / 10
A very good and in some cases outstanding vintage where Jean-Jacques Girard and Nicolas Potel (Roche de Bellene) think it’s the best vintage they have ever made… ‘once in a life time vintage’. With Jean-Jacques Girard we concur as all his wines were a tier above what we would expect. It’s the first time when have bought his Bourgogne Pinot Noir since 2010. With Nicolas Potel we think his 2015 wines were actually better so we have decided to buy more back vintages of stock.
Overall the red wines have impressive density and fruit concentration and are well balanced with plenty of energy and tension. The quality goes all the way through and many Star Buys can be found at the lower end pricing.
The Whites - Our vintage score 8-8.5 / 10
A good to very good vintage in most places with excellent depth and fruit concentration. Some producers like Gérard Thomas (St Aubin), Séguinot-Bordet (Chablis), Samuel Billaud (Chablis) are on par with their 2017’s however in many cases we think the 2017’s have the slight edge due to their impressive freshness, focus, tension and overall balance.
Our notes are purely written from our tastings in the cellar. As I am sure you appreciate there is much work that goes into producing these reports. A big thank you to my fellow tasters who accompanied me on this Burgundy trip and their contribution. References to Andrew Ray (AR) and Charlie Murphy (CM) in the tasting notes.
For further information, please contact us on 01325 776446 where we will be very happy to talk you through our thoughts on the vintage and discuss what will suit your cellar / palate.
