There has been much enthusiasm regarding the potential of the 2019 Burgundy vintage; one of low yields, yet high quality for both whites and reds. Regrettably, due to international travel restrictions regarding the Covid-19 pandemic, Andrew and I were, of course, unable to make our annual pilgrimage to Burgundy to taste the latest vintage from barrel. A true shame as tasting in the cellar is such a privilege, and one that we never take for granted; a moment in time where we are fortunate to be given the opportunity to taste from the barrel, discuss openly, and at length with producers about all their hard work in both the vineyard, and cellar over the last 12 months.
In November we therefore found ourselves in similar circumstances to the Bordeaux 2019 En Primeur campaign earlier in the year, resulting in producers sending barrel samples direct to Moor Park HQ for us to taste.
In a world full of uncertainty, one thing we can have confidence in is the 2019 Burgundy vintage, where upon the earliest of impressions, it is one full of promise. When tasting En Primeur we are looking for true expression; that of terroir, balance, structure, purity, and harmony. I have personally tasted En Primeur for over 20 years now and have worked with many of these winemakers for most of this period, and I still have as much respect for their craft now, as I did when I first started. As a result of climate change and the challenges that Mother Nature brings, they must constantly adapt. Several of the Domaines are now embracing the younger generation who have been patiently waiting in the wings, serving time in the cellar and in the fields. I hope you enjoy this review; do read the producer notes, full of the key facts of their holdings and winemaker’s comments on the vintage, as well as our producer notes, highlighting their news over the last year, including new techniques embraced in the field, and cellar.
Vintage and growing conditions
The season began with a rather mild and dry winter, followed by the occasional cold snap in February that set the scene for the vintage by prompting an early start to the growing cycle with bud burst occurring at the start of April. A serious bout of frost arrived in mid-April, severe enough to reduce yields and then Spring continued very much in the same manner as winter; fresh, mild, and dry. Further issues with strong winds and damp weather around flowering caused millerandage and coulure for some.
Nevertheless, summer was hot, dry, and marked by two heat waves; the first in early July, where a combination of high temperatures (up to 40°C) and low water table reserves due to the mild winter, caused hydro-stress and vines to shut down in several places. The second in August continued all the way through until harvest time, which allowed grapes to reach full phenolic ripeness. A small yield was on the horizon from the start (some producers told us as much as 40% in comparison to a normal year), though what was produced is high in fruit concentration, alcohol, and acidity levels. Despite the climatic extremities, overall, the conditions had balanced themselves out and resulted in wines that are fruity, ripe, and concentrated whilst maintaining plenty of freshness and balance.
As the Indian summer rolled into September, harvest time started around the 5th-6th in the Mâconnais, Chablis and the Côte de Beaune, and ever so slightly later in the Côte de Nuits (mid-September). Of course, the decision to pick is dependent on the vineyard management, house style and winemaker preferences.
Reds: our vintage score 9-9.5 / 10
A very good vintage where wines are ripe and pure with outstanding balance and freshness. Without a doubt there is quality available at all levels (Village to Grand Cru), and appellations, however, Nuits-Saint-Georges, Gevrey-Chambertin and Vosne-Romanée stood out with added concentration and complexity. Coincidentally, we were most impressed with Bertrand Ambroise, Faiveley and Rossignol-Trapet, whom we feel have truly excelled this year.
Whites: our vintage score 8.5-9 / 10
A good vintage where the fruit-forward wines are complimented by good structure and freshness. The warm growing season is evident in wines specifically from the Côte de Beaune, with more exotic and tropical characteristics, and a fuller, rounder mouth feel. Chablis’ northern location has permitted its wines to retain the classic linear and focused precision, and extra emphasis of lemon citrus and crunchy green apple. Special mentions to both Samuel Billaud and Gérard Thomas having once again created some stunning wines, as well as newcomer to our portfolio, Sylvain Bzikot.
Our notes are purely written from samples provided by producers and tasted at Moor Park HQ. As I am sure you appreciate there is much work that goes into producing these reports, so a big thank you to my fellow taster and wine buyer, Andrew Ray, who joined me for this marathon tasting and has been instrumental in producing our Burgundy 2019 En Primeur Vintage report.
Please contact us on 01325 776446 where we will be very happy to talk you through our thoughts on the vintage further and discuss what will suit your cellar / palate.
