The alarm clock seemed to go off before I had even been asleep, but 5 minutes in the shower worked. In the car at 8am, for our first tasting of the day at Trotte Vieille, tasting the Borie–Manoux right bank Chateau. Frederic Casteja, Directeur General came out especially to meet us. We started with La Croix de Casse (Pomerol), Chateau du Domaine de L’Eglise (Pomerol) and well as Trotte Vieille’s second wine; Dame de Trotte Vieille before tasting a vertical of Trotte Vieille from 2017, 2007 and 1947. The 47 was wonderful, despite being over 70 years old, it still had plenty freshness and fruit… With the 47 dancing on our palates we dashed over to Canon for our next tasting.
Canon was firing again! Incredibly it escaped the frost, therefore volumes are the same as 2015 and 2016 which resulted in the earliest harvest ever. The 2017 lacks some of the power of the 2015 and 2016 yet offers full, gorgeous and bright pure fruits with impressive complexity, grace and fine tannins; making it very drinkable, even now…. We also tasted Chateau Berliquet, Canon’s neighbour which they bought last year. There’s lots of work to do to bring it up to Canon’s level, so one to watch and follow for the future.
After Canon we headed to Figeac. Here the yield is well down, producing 60% less wine than last year (40% down on the norm). A good, mid-weight Figeac, however, well below the superb 2015 and 2016 as it missed a little density and complexity in the mid-palate. Comments from the tasting team was it was similar to the 2004.
We then headed for Pavie, which is more like a 5 star hotel than a Chateau to taste Gerard Perse’s collection. The tannins have been toned down a lot over the last few years, nevertheless, we struggled with the firm, aggressive tannins that overwhelmed both mine and Charlie’s palate. From Pavie it was onto Vieux Chateau Certan (VCC) which is in the running for our wine of the vintage and is most certainly our top wine of the day. For Alexander Thienpont, owner and winemaker the 2017 is like the 2014 for it’s freshness and 2015 for it’s creaminess. For me it was ‘sublime and remarkable’.
Next back to Pomerol and to Gazin for the UGC Pomerol tasting. Here the star for me was Chateau Rouget which I preferred over both Gazin and Clinet. It was a pleasure to meet Edouard Labruyere (his family own Rouget). Edouard spent some time talking and discussing Rouget, which is situated across the road from Eglise Clinet and has been organic since 2014. Charlie’s pick from this tasting was La Croix de Gay. After a quick and much needed lunch at Gazin, we returned to St Emilion and Chateau La Couspaude for the UGC St Emilion tasting to taste Troplong Mondot, Clos Fourtet and La Gaffeliere, which I was told was impressive but didn’t really sing for me.
From La Couspaude it was to Cheval Blanc for 2pm where we tasted Quinault L’Enclos which didn’t disappoint; we will have to wait and see for release prices, however, this normally offers great value for the money. Cheval Blanc was quoted to have “nose of the 2014 and the palate of 2011 giving it backbone and deep tannins”. Personally I found it a little unyielding, but you could tell it had serious pedigree. Judgement is reserved.
After leaving Cheval Blanc we popped next door to La Conseilliante (Pomerol) and tasted a sophisticated and graceful Grand Vin. Volumes are down by 15% due to the frost. They described the 2017 wine between the 2014 vintage for its freshness and the 2016 vintage for its complexity and elegance.
Angelus was next. Not the normal bun fight, as it was just Hubert de Bouard’s wines not all of his consultancy properties so we could concentrate on Angelus. This was very much in tune with my palate and really sang to me. I’m a big fan. Bravo.
Being 30 minutes ahead of schedule we diverted to Chateau La Dominique to taste their wines as well as Michel Rolland’s consultant properties. A good decision, some promising wines here. Quick tasting slot at L’Evangile, which showed really well, got the thumbs up from both Charlie and myself.
Next was Nenin, another property severely hit by the frost. A charming wine with good length and depth, yet with an 80% loss in production I’m not sure how much will be released. After Nenin we headed to our final stop at the Stephen Derenoncourt consultancy tasting at La Gaffeliere where we met with Chateau Jean Faux to taste their organic and biodynamic wines; a good finale.
Busy fourth day with 14 visits and about many wines tasted….looking forward to an epic day tomorrow, on the Bordeaux left bank with three first growths on the agenda….
