After our cancelled, then delayed flight from Manchester, it was great to have a leisurely rise and stroll to the boulangerie to grab breakfast before our first appointment in Saint-Émilion with Anabelle Cruse Bardinet at Château Corbin. Anabelle talked us through the vintage and showed us her stunning 2023 offering, which was an excellent way to begin our En Primeur campaign.
When we first tasted Corbin En Primeur back in 2020 (2019 vintage), it reminded us of a little sister to Château Canon. We could say the same for the 2023 vintage this year – bravo Annabelle.
From here it was then off to see our old friend in Pomerol, Martin Krajewski and his daughter Lolly (winemaker), to taste his two properties; Château Séraphine (Pomerol) and Clos Cantenac (Saint-Émilion). Martin believes they are the best wines made at both estates and it’s hard to disagree, especially for Séraphine, as the vines are getting older, and in turn, are producing better quality fruit year on year. Speedy boarding for new heights with this. Well done, Lolly!
After a light lunch we headed across to taste the Durantou wines at Château Église Clinet where we had the pleasure of both Noëmie and Constance joining us to guide us through their wines. What was evident is the passion that flows through them both and into the wines… no surprise that the wines shone. Bravo Noëmie, Dad would be proud of what you have achieved!
Running 15mins behind schedule our next stop was Château Montlabert in Saint-Émilion where Jamie worked the vendage back in 1988. It is now part of the Castel empire and was elevated to Grand Cru Classé status in the latest reclassification (2022). Sadly, they picked after the rain in September, and we feel this has resulted in a little dilution.
From Saint-Émilion we headed back to Bordeaux and Bordeaux Lac, for our tasting with great friend, mentor, and Sauternes disciple: Bill Blatch (also known as “Bordeaux Bill”). Bill preached about the rivers of gold in 2023 vintage, as we tasted our way through 40 Sauternes-Barsac. The main bout of botrytis came quickly in just 10-15 days following the rains on September 20th, and have created wines as rich as 2022, yet with more freshness and vibrant acidity. The Sauternais were happy with both quality and quantity (on average 15 hectolitres per hectare), which doesn’t sound much though remember, they pick in several sweeps through the vineyard (tries), grape by grape and not by bunch!
Back to Boncoeur HQ for a beer and barbecue then prepare for our ultra-marathon tomorrow with two large Négociant tastings at their logistic warehouses to get really under the skin of the vintage. Bon appétit et bonne nuit!
Another glorious sunny morning greeted us as we headed from Bordeaux up into the Médoc for our first Négociant tasting of the day at Ulysse Cazabonne where we sampled over 100 wines from both the Right and Left Bank, as well as varying quality levels from Cru Bourgeois to Classified Growths (“Super Second”). It was great to see many familiar and friendly faces like Veronique Dausse (Château Phelan Segur), Pierre Courdurié (Château Croix de Labrie), Guillaume Pouthier (Château Carmes Haut Brion) and Emeline Borie (Chateau Grand Puy Lacoste), yet more importantly, it gave us the opportunity to try their respective wines on multiple occasions; now, as well as later in the week at each estate. Stand out wines were Chéteaux Malescot St. Exupery (Margaux), Phélan Segur (St. Estèphe), Pichon Comtesse (Pauillac), as well as Croix de Labrie and Laroque (both St. Émilion).
After a quick bite to eat (and a splash of Château Phélan Segur 1999 no less!), we headed onto our second Negociant tasting of the day. A quick 20-minute skirmish across country to Ballande et Meneret to discuss the vintage, allocations, and the campaign in general. We retried some wines, and sampled an array of estates that weren’t available earlier on. Special mentions to Châteaux Beychevelle (St. Julien), Pedesclaux (Pauillac), Cantemerle (Haut-Médoc) and Clos Gaffèliere) which all stood out from the bustling crowd.
Back to Maison Boncoeur to freshen up and have supper, before going out the rugby to watch Bordeaux Bègles vs Clermont Auvergne in the Top 14… it can’t be all work, and no play. Allez UBB!
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