It’s a pleasure to present our 2022 Burgundy En Primeur review. As many of you will be aware, after the challenging and low-yielding 2021 vintage, vignerons are pleased to be back on track with a more generous harvest for 2022. Andrew and I were once again thrilled to return to the Côte d’Or (and the Mâconnais) to get to grips with the latest release; an experience we never take for granted. It is quite simply a moment in time where we are incredibly fortunate to be given the opportunity to taste direct from the barrel, discussing openly and at length with producers about all their hard work in both the vineyard and cellar, over the last 12 months.
There was a quiet, understated confidence emanating from producers during our tastings, and upon first impressions, it appears to be a modern masterpiece, where delightful wines in both white and red have been crafted. Comparing vintages is always tricky business as they truly are unique, nevertheless, Head Winemaker at Domaine Faiveley, Jérôme Flous, commented that 2022 was a “classic vintage… [it] was not too rich or concentrated”, and during our extensive discussion said it reminded him of “2017 (for whites), but with more purity… and 2018 (for reds), yet with more finesse.” Nicolas Rossignol from Domaine Rossignol-Trapet in Gevrey-Chambertin summarised the 2022 vintage succinctly as “having the climate of 2003, but the aromatic and flavour profile of 2020 and 2012, just with added spicy characteristics.”
Interestingly having heard and read about the sporadic progression of the growing season, we were pleasantly surprised by what we found in the glass; vibrant, balanced, and charming wines brimming with energy and life. Although an improvement in yield was a welcome relief from the previous year, the 2022 vintage was not a bumper crop by any means with yields varying anywhere between 28 and 45 hectolitres. After the price increases of last year, we hope that they stabilise for this vintage (and with another good crop coming in the 2023 vintage), however, we are more discerning than ever in our buying policy. When tasting En Primeur we are looking for true expression; that of terroir, balance, structure, purity, and harmony. Above all, we search for wines we truly believe in, and feel represent value for money and stand out in the crowd.
Furthermore, as your independent wine merchant it is our job to continuously search for new and exciting Domaines. From smaller, up-and-coming appellations that we kindly refer to as ‘petits villages’, to more famous communes, and so we are delighted to welcome Claudie Jobard (Rully), and Joseph Pascal (Puligny-Montrachet) to our 2022 En Primeur offering. Although not a new producer for us as they have featured in our main portfolio for many years, it is the first time we have sold Saumaize-Michelin (Pouilly-Fuissé) En Primeur; their wines were simply stunning; and could easily hold their own against top Premier Cru Puligny-Montrachet.
Vintage and growing conditions
Winter 2021-22 was rather mild with slightly lower levels of rainfall but provided the water table with sufficient reserves. The risk of Spring frost was ever present in producers’ minds; however, it did not occur as expected with a small bout through the nights of 10th-12th April where temperatures dropped to around -2°C. Although this wasn’t any real cause for concern, some producers understandably still worked tirelessly during these nights to mitigate damage mainly with ‘bougies’ (candles) to put their minds at ease given track record of recent years.
As Spring arrived, so did the warmer weather and budburst ensued without any problems. The warm, dry conditions continued into May, allowing for almost perfect flowering mid-month, which resulted in high hopes for a much-needed abundant crop.
In June the hot weather continued until the second half of the month, when the course of the vintage changed due to storms and heavy rainfall on 21st-23rd June. Initially welcomed to replenish the already-depleted water table and alleviate possible hydric stress, feelings quickly turned to distress, with fears for vineyard damage (mainly erosion and mudslides) due to the extraordinary volume of water in such a short period of time. Nicolas Rossignol recalls that in Gevrey-Chambertin they had a “deluge of 170mm of rainfall in a week” and during one downpour “the rain was so heavy it was flowing down the street like a river; such was the power it even burst a few manhole covers as if it was nothing!”. Down in Nuits-Saint-Georges at Domaine Faiveley, Jérôme Flous, commented that throughout May “unprecedented levels of rain had fallen (250mm), almost three times the ‘norm’ of 60mm.”
Thankfully Mother Nature was kind to the vignerons and the remainder of the summer was one of the hottest, sunniest, and driest on records since the early 1990s with more than 40 days exceeding 30°C. When heatwaves came, they did so in manageable, short bursts rather than one long, grueling episode. The vines were therefore able to cope accordingly thanks to the rejuvenated water table, with little impact on quality of berries (even if some producers saw a slight reduction in yield). The risk of disease pressure was more or less non-existent; another grand merci terre-mère! A small shower on August 19th nudged maturation over the finish line and harvest began in mid/late August for whites, and early September for reds. Overall, the grapes came into the wineries in very good health, balanced acidity, and moderate alcohol levels (12.5-13.5% ABV). Of course, the decision to pick is always dependent on vineyard management, house style, as well as winemaker preferences.
Whites: our vintage score 8.5 / 10
A good vintage that has created linear, pure, and precise wines with an emphasis on green, citrus and white stone fruit (surprisingly less tropical and exotic fruit than you would expect from such a warm year). Again, we feel the best value is found at both Village and Premier Cru levels from Domaines Jean-Louis Chavy, Gérard Thomas, and Saumaize-Michelin, regardless of appellation. Irrespective of whether you prefer them youthful or with a bit of bottle age, these wines have good tension, energy and vivacity that won't disappoint.
Reds: our vintage score 9 / 10
A very good vintage that has produced attractive, vibrant, and juicy wines combining summer berry and bramble fruit with delicate floral overtones. We believe the best value to be found is Village and Premier Cru levels from Domaines AF Gros, Rossignol-Trapet, and Ambroise, regardless of appellation. These wines will provide great pleasure and drinkability in youth due to fantastic fruit purity and vivacity; yet also have the potential to age gracefully mid-term in the cellar.
Do read our full vintage report; full of the key facts of their holdings and winemaker’s comments on the vintage, as well as our producer notes, highlighting their news over the last year.
If you would like to discuss options further, please call me in the office on 01325 776446, where I will be happy to guide you through the vintage.
