Nestled at the southern foothills of the Sierra de Cantabria Mountain range in Northern Spain, La Rioja is, without a doubt, a food and wine lovers paradise. It is the smallest of the seventeen autonomous Spanish communities and is predominantly (and quite rightly) internationally famous for it’s quality wine production. However, ask if anyone has visited and the answer will be very few. Armed with our top tips on winery tours, places to visit, and where and what to eat; you’ll be feeling like a true Riojano in no time at all… ¡Vamos!
Wine is, of course, at the top of most people’s agenda when visiting La Rioja… and quite rightly so! It’s Spain’s most iconic wine producing region, with over 500 wineries dotted throughout the three sub-regions: Rioja Alta, Rioja Alavesa, and Rioja Oriental. There are plenty of options to choose from when visiting and wine tourism has become increasingly popular with tours and tastings, as well as restaurant and boutique hotel experiences all on offer. We would highly recommend starting in the town of Haro, which is the epicentre of production and boasts the largest concentration of century-old wineries in the world known as the Barrio de la Estación. The first port of call should always be La Rioja Alta, which has undoubtedly become a firm favourite with our customers in recent years. Not to be confused with the sub-region, this historic winery was founded in 1890, and is one of the most traditional that still has its own cooperage on-site to make their own barrels (sadly becoming a dying art). Conclude the tour of their impressive cooperage, winery, and cellars with a selection of tapas and a glass or two of flagship Viña Ardanza Reserva, or be tempted by back vintages of sublime 904 and 890 Gran Reservas in the state-of-the-art tasting room: El garaje del club de cosecheros.
At the top of the street, RODA is a must visit. Although a relatively late comer onto the Riojan winemaking scene (1987), they have rapidly gained respect for their meticulous research and development of grape varieties with a focus on select vineyards sites, specific clones, as well as planting at higher altitude. Immerse yourself in the super-modern winery and a tasting of SELA or Roda Reserva, overlooking the Ebro River. If you want a unique experience, book a horse-drawn rickshaw ride through the vines!
Enjoy the stunning vineyard vistas as far as the eye can see as you head east on the N-232 towards the village of Elciego and Marqués de Riscal. Another historic winery created in 1858, however, it shot to stardom when American Canadian architect, Frank Gehry, designed the boutique hotel that now dominates the skyline (picture above). Why not book a stay at this luxurious boutique hotel and enjoy a relaxing spa session followed by dinner at the Michelin-starred Restaurante Marqués de Riscal, run by one of Spain’s best chefs: Francis Paniego. Go on, treat yourself!
It’s worth making a detour to visit the medieval hilltop village of Laguardia, which enjoys some of the best views in all of Rioja, including the impressive Ysios winery designed by Spanish architect: Santiago Calatrava. Make haste to the region’s capital, Logroño, and end your vinous tour at the jaw-dropping Marqués de Murrieta. Founded in 1852 (you’re starting to see the theme now), it took inspiration from the French Château surrounded by vines concept, and the resulting Castillo Ygay estate was as impressive then, as it is now. In 2019, extensive castle and winery renovations were completed with the utmost care and attention to detail after many years of hard work. The same can be said for their vines and wines from the exceptional Capellanía Blanco Gran Reserva to the ever-reliable Reserva, as well as the legendary Castillo Ygay Gran Reserva Especial. Elevate your visit to the highest level by booking a tour followed by a wine-paired tasting menu by their private chef… an unforgettable experience in one of the most forward-thinking wineries in the world.
Marques de Murrieta
Logroño is a Mecca for food and wine lovers who travel from all over Spain to visit the famous Calle Laurel. On this tiny 200-metre street there are 60 bars packed in together each offering a tantalising array of tapas and pintxos (northern Spanish version of tapas). However, some remain very traditional and just offer one specific pintxo, so, we recommend going on a pintxo crawl to sample some local delicacies. These are our top tips!
Start proceedings at Calle Laurel’s entrance and La Tavina with a Riojanito, minced spicy sausage with a fried quail egg. A great way to begin and pairs wonderfully with a glass of fruity Crianza; choose from ever-changing by the glass list, there’s always interesting to drink. Bar Seba is next and one of the most classic Spanish dishes: tortilla, however, the main decision is whether to have a slice with their notorious spicy sauce (or not) … be warned, it packs a serious punch! Still feeling peckish? Head around the corner to La Fontana for torreznos; crunchy pork belly and what can only be described as the ultimate Spanish pork scratching. However, here you must drink a beer, it’s just a better pairing … though to sound like a local rather than cerveza, ask for ¡una caña, por favor! A crawl is not complete without patatas bravas, and the Bar Jubera over the road is the best, though beware it gets busy so be prepared to fight for a spot at the bar! One of the great Riojan debates is who serves the best champi (mushroom pintxo), Bar Ángel or Bar Soriano… and for us it’s the latter! On the surface, it’s a simple pintxo of 3 grilled mushrooms on a slice of baguette topped with a prawn and drizzled in garlic sauce. However, it’s a taste sensation, so order a few so you don’t have to wait again. Next door and the definitive stop of the crawl should be Bar Lorenzo for a tío Agus; chunks of spicy marinated pork cooked on the plancha and smothered in garlicky-herby sauce. A fitting end to your gastro tour. ¡Qué aproveche!
Get off the beaten track and discover this wonderful under the radar region, you won’t be disappointed!
