The Grape
Malbec is a black grape variety producing deeply coloured, intensely flavoured and fruit driven red wines with robust tannin. The grape variety originated in France where the majority of the plantings can be found around the town of Cahors, in the south-west. These wines produce the darkest, most tannic and austere expressions of the grape.
In the New World, Argentina has proven itself to be at the forefront of production and produces 75% of the world’s Malbec. The wines from here will typically have pure, luxurious dark-fruit and peppery, spicy character. Malbec is usually found as a single varietal, however, it can be blended with Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot as well as Bonarda.
Background
Historically Argentina was all about quantity over quality and was the biggest producer of wine outside of Europe. A massive 90% of wine produced in the country was consumed domestically. That changed in the early 1990s when key industry figures like Michel Rolland, a world-renowned oenologist and wine consultant, started working closely with wineries in Mendoza to realise their potential. He helped to bring Argentinean Malbec to an international audience. The focus was on ripeness and intense fruit concentration with a significant use of oak to accentuate the smooth texture and aromatic complexity. This style of ripe, high alcohol, oaky Malbec made the variety a household name, much like Marlborough, New Zealand has done for Sauvignon Blanc.
Argentinean Malbec has changed a lot since then and the current trend has moved towards pure, light oak or unoaked wines with softer tannins that express individual ‘terroir’. The styles produced now are more restrained and refreshing, showcasing both elegance and purity of fruit character. The variety is capable of producing a wide range of styles which is why top wine producers from around the world are getting involved and exploring the richness and diversity of Argentina’s many micro climates and soils.
The ever-increasing popularity of the grape and the instant appeal of its enticing fruitiness has led to other countries following suit. Malbec can also be found in Chile, New Zealand, Australia and South Africa.
Mendoza
Mendoza is the beating heart of the Argentinean wine industry, and the majority of Malbec is grown in this region with the best examples coming from the high-altitude sub regions of Uco Valley and Lujan de Cuyo. The variety thrives at high elevation in the warm, dry climate. The grape is not the easiest to grow and it is usually susceptible to diseases and viticultural hazards such as frost, rot, and mildew, however, the Mendoza climate alleviates these issues.
Wines with Altitude
Growing at altitude has become the perfect environment for Malbec with many of the vineyards located over 1000 metres above sea level in the foothills of the Andes mountains. The altitude along with the wide diurnal swing between day and night temperatures also for a slow ripening period.
Food Pairing
Malbec has become synonymous with steak, yet the modern styles are great with umami, the fifth primary taste associated with savoury or meaty flavours found in foods such as mushrooms, parmesan, and soy sauce. It is also fantastic with leaner meats such as venison, turkey as well as chicken.
Top 6 Malbec Wines
Kaiken Clasico Malbec, Mendoza 2019
Highly regarded Chilean producer Aurelio Montes crafts this wine, named after kaikenes, a breed of wild Patagonian geese that fly across the Andes. Rich, dark and full-bodied with aromas and flavours of black cherry and liquorice, smooth, silky tannin and a long satisfying finish with bitter chocolate and delicate floral notes.
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Zuccardi, Valles Malbec, Uco Valley 2020
Zuccardi are one of the top producers in Argentina and focused on terroir-driven wines that reflect where they come from. Charming aromas of raspberry, red plum and blackcurrant with undertones of vanilla spice. Medium-bodied with a juicy, luscious texture and ripe, round tannins that wrap around a core of further red and black fruit with added sweet spice.
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Bodegas Caro, Aruma Malbec, Mendoza 2020
Aruma Malbec is the superstar collaboration combining the expertise of Bordeaux's Barons de Rothschild (Lafite) and Argentinian pioneer Nicolás Catena at their joint project Bodegas Caro, culminating in the creation one of country's finest Malbecs. Grapes are specifically chosen from the high-altitude parcels of Agrelo and Altamira, some of the best sites in Mendoza and the Uco Valley. There is no oak ageing, which produces a fresh, ripe, and velvety style of wine with an emphasis on dark black and bramble fruits fused with an added touch of black pepper spice.
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Bodegas Caro, Petit Caro, Mendoza 2017
Petit Caro combines old world pedigree with Argentinian power and elegance thanks to the blend of 65% Malbec, 32% Cabernet Sauvignon and 3% Cabernet Franc. Grapes are sourced from selected plots of old vines in the premium sub region of Lujan de Cuyo as well as from Altamira in the South. Impressive nose of black cherry, blackcurrant and cassis fused with notes of black plum and fig. Juicy and vibrant on the palate complemented by ripe, velvety tannins that gives great focus and direction.
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Origen Gran Reserva Malbec, Central Valley (Chile) 2018
We’ve ventured over the other side of the Andes Mountains, to Chile, for this pick to demonstrate that excellent Malbec is produced outside of Argentina. The ORIGEN range is an exclusive collaboration between renowned Chilean winemaker Luis Felipe Edwards and Bon Coeur. Hand selected by James Goodhart Founder of Bon Coeur, for the quality and true reflection of the finest Chile has to offer. Impressive nose of black cherry and black plum and a touch of liquorice. Rich and round with ripe, juicy tannins wrapped around a core of dark black fruit and mocha spice.
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Zuccardi Malamado Fortified Malbec, Uco Valley NV
My final pick is quite leftfield - a fortified Malbec from one of the best producers in Argentina; Zuccardi. This wine went down a storm at our recent tasting events and is a great alternative to a tawny port. It is well balanced and harmonious with the juicy dark fruits, spice and chocolate characteristics of Malbec integrated with warming notes of cinnamon, clove and dried fig. A great addition to a cheese board, or it would also pair well with chocolate-based desserts.
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For more information on Malbec or Argentinean wines, please do not hesitate to contact us at wine@bcfw.co.uk