Wine and Dine: Chalk Stream Trout in Butter Sauce

Summer has arrived at last… it’s hard to believe we are fast approaching the longest day already. June is a great time for wild foods; elderflowers are plentiful and make delicious cordial... perfect when topped up with Prosecco. They will be replaced by the berries towards the end of the month. When they are still green and unripe they can be pickled and will add little flavour bursts to all sorts of dishes where you may normally use capers. Try putting a few into a ham hock terrine. When ripe, the berries will also make a delicious Gin (ready in time for Christmas) or jelly which will be delicious when added to a sauce for venison.

This month’s recipe is perfect for those Al fresco lunches we’ve all been waiting for and is exactly the right thing to enjoy with a glass of Solevari Reserve Feteasca Regala, Cramele Recas, 2022 from Romania. With a delicious mix of Citrus and tropical fruit and fresh acidity it’s the perfect match for Chalk Stream trout. Cooked simply, with some of the season’s finest ingredients and a simple dressing this will be one of the best lunches you have this year!

Ingredients (serves 2)

For the fish

500ml water

25g fine salt plus extra for seasoning

2 x centre cut Chalk stream trout fillet portions (about 160 to 180g) with skin on

For the sauce

1 banana shallot finely diced

50 ml white wine vinegar

50ml White wine

200g unsalted butter well chilled and cut into 1cm cubes

20g brown shrimps

50g petits pois blanched in boiling water for 30 seconds

1 lemon

To Serve

One bunch asparagus, peeled

Jersey Royals (optionals)

Method

Brine the fish

Bring the water to a simmer and dissolve the salt in it. Then cool and chill.

Soak the fish in the chilled brine for 30 minutes.

Remove, pat dry and set aside at room temperature.

Make the sauce

Add vinegar, wine and shallot to a small steel pan. Do not use aluminium.

Simmer and reduce until there is about 2 tablespoons of liquid left.

Pass through a fine sieve into a clean pan and discard the shallot.

Over a low heat, whisk in the butter one cube at a time until you have a pale yellow sauce. Do not let the pan get too hot or it will split.

Stir through the shrimps and peas and season with salt and a squeeze of lemon juice.

Set aside to keep warm.

Finish the dish

Bring a non-stick frying pan to a medium heat and add a little sunflower oil.

Add the fish skin side down and press down with your fingers until you feel it relax.

You should be hearing a gentle sizzle.

Leave to cook without disturbing. You will see the heat gradually rising up the fillet. When its nearly done, turn the fish and finish for about 1 minute.

You should have a lovely crispy skin and beautifully soft, tender fish. set aside to rest while you cook the asparagus.

Steam the asparagus for about 4 minutes until tender.

Season with salt and a little melted butter.

Spoon the sauce over the fish and serve with asparagus on the side. A few boiled Jersey Royals would be a welcome addition.