Riesling has a much-maligned reputation in the UK stemming from the 1970/80s thanks the infamous holy trinity of Blue Nun, Black Tower, and Liebfraumilch. However, there is so much more to Riesling than those super-sweet concoctions, and at Bon Coeur we’re on a mission to change customers minds! It has long been a firm favourite grape for those in the wine trade thanks to its intense aromatics, electrifying acidity, ability to showcase “terroir” unlike any other grape as well as the potential to age impeccably for decades. Yet sadly, this has never quite hit home with consumers, who still recoil in fear at just hearing the name uttered…
And so, I have selected some of the best Rieslings from our cellar, highlighting Riesling’s excellent versatility, range, and price point. From Austria to Australia, via Alsace and the Mosel, let me guide you through the greatest of grapes that has made its way around the world and why it has a profile for every palate.
Robert Oatley Signature Series Great Southern Riesling, Australia 2021
Wine is in the blood of the Oatley family, or so they claim. Founded by Robert Oatley in the 1960’s and now managed by his son Sandy, Oatley Wines produce some of the very best wines coming out of Australia. This magnificent example of Australian Riesling has received minimal intervention leading to an abundance of fresh lemon-lime citrus and green apples on the nose and palate, balanced by lifted floral notes and bright, crisp acidity.
Food Pairing: The aromatic nature of this wine will pair perfectly with Asian seafood dishes, chili prawns or steamed ginger seabass.
Vickery Eden Valley Riesling, Australia 2023
Known as the ‘Godfather of Aussie Riesling’ John Vickery was a monumental influence in improving the quality of Australian Riesling with an illustrious career spanning almost sixty years. Dedicating his life to this one great grape, which resulted in the extraordinary awards tally of more than fifty trophies and over four hundred gold medals. The slow ripening, cool climate flavour development and a greater retention of acidity are the key attributes that make Eden Valley one of the top growing regions in Australia for Riesling. This is a superb Riesling that boasts lots of lime, honey blossom, and lemon curd supported by zippy acidity on the persistent finish.
Food Pairing: Enjoy with fresh shellfish, the acidity and minerality will cut through the richness of a creamy mussel sauce or meaty monkfish.
Wachau ‘Federspiel’ Riesling, Austria 2020
Domäne Wachau is one of Austria’s iconic producers where its terraced vineyards are strung along the steep banks of the Danube River, on a patchwork of specific terroirs. Headed up by Master of Wine Roman Horvath and Heinz Frischengruber, this dynamic co-operative cultivates some of the finest Riesling in the region and is a model for sustainable winemaking and grower collaboration. Grapes are hand-picked and carefully selected before being processed in a pneumatic tank press, with temperature-controlled fermentation and lees-ageing in stainless steel tanks. The result is subtle aromas of peach, apricot, apple blossom as well as a touch of lychee, balanced by vibrant, racy acidity and taught finish.
Food Pairing: Stay traditionally Austrian and match with Weiner Schnitzel or a hearty pork sausage with wholegrain mustard.
Schlumberger ‘Les Prince Abbés’ Riesling, France 2019
Established in 1810 the estate of Domaine Schlumberger in Alsace, in the east of France, is currently run by the sixth and seventh generations of the Schlumberger family. From small beginnings of 20 hectares of vines the Domaine now owns 140-hectares of vines with 70-hectares classified as Grands Crus. There is no denying they produce some of very best Riesling in the region, such as this bottling with its aromatic notes of apple and pear with hints of ripe peach, lime, and ginger spice. Clean and crisp on the mid-palate with zesty acidity on the fine, focused finish.
Food Pairing: Try this wine with any number of rich fish dishes such as salmon or tuna, especially with a bitter leaf salad and dressing.
Greywacke Marlborough Riesling, New Zealand 2022
Greywacke (pronounced Greywacky) is the latest venture of pioneer Kevin Judd, former head winemaker of the iconic winery: Cloudy Bay. Founded in 2009 in the heart of Marlborough and named after New Zealand’s famous bedrock, it’s a small family run team with sustainability at the core of their winemaking philosophy. They are reaping the rewards by producing some excellent quality wines, including their Riesling. It is half fermented in stainless steel with the other half in French oak, left on the lees for five months after fermentation to add depth and complexity. Charming aromas of crunchy red apple, cranberry, and freshly squeezed lemon is balanced by fresh acidity that wraps around a core of nectarine, mandarin and star anise. Off dry in style.
Food Pairing: The touch of sweetness that marks this wine out will help to expertly balance out chili heat. Choose this next time you’re eyeing up an Indian banquet.
Dr Loosen Riesling Eiswein, Germany NV
The Loosen family has been growing and producing wine in the town of Bernkastel in the Mosel Valley for over 200 years. The current owner, Ernst “Erni” Loosen is a character larger than life, and after assuming ownership of the estate in 1988, has been on a quest to greatly improve the quality and reputation of the estate, the Mosel region, and Riesling around the world. Eiswein is the sweetest style of Riesling and is extremely difficult and expensive to produce. By law, grapes can only be picked in the depths of winter when they are frozen while still on the vine; as this freezes the water in the grapes but not the sugars, allowing tiny quantities of highly sweetened grape juice to be extracted. The resulting wine is sweet, with a burst of dense, rich flavour and a clean line of fresh, uplifing acidity. Concentrated and complex aromas of pear, apple and guava are underpinned by a luscious and silky texture and poised, incredibly long finish.
Food Pairing: Apple crumble and custard. Tarte tatin and creme anglaise. Treacle tart and Chantilly cream. Any of these sweet and caramelised desserts with bags of vanilla. Or pass on dessert and just drink this instead.
